KATHMANDU: When Polish alpinist Andrzej Bargiel stunned the world on September 22 with his historic autumn ski descent from the summit of Mount Everest — without supplemental oxygen — the global mountaineering community hailed it as a groundbreaking feat. But behind Bargiel’s success stood a familiar figure in Himalayan expeditions: Chhang Dawa Sherpa, a record-holding climber and one of the most accomplished expedition leaders of his generation.

For many of the greatest triumphs in modern mountaineering, Chhang Dawa’s name quietly anchors the story. His sharp logistical skills, meticulous planning, and steady guidance have propelled some of the most daring climbers to write history on the world’s highest peaks. 

“Without Chhang Dawa, many of these ambitious projects would have remained just dreams,” remarked officials at the Nepal Mountaineering Association (NMA).

In 2019, Chhang Dawa orchestrated the landmark “14 Peaks in 7 Months” project of former British Gurkha Nirmal ‘Nims’ Purja, a mission once considered unattainable. His behind-the-scenes role was pivotal to the record-shattering success that drew worldwide acclaim and inspired the Netflix documentary 14 Peaks: Nothing Is Impossible.

His reputation as a master expedition leader only grew in subsequent years. Dawa spearheaded the first successful K2 winter ascent, managed Kristin Harila and Tenjen “Lama” Sherpa’s speed record of climbing all 14 peaks above 8,000 meters in just 92 days, and coordinated the dramatic rescue of Indian climber Anurag Maloo, who was miraculously pulled from a crevasse on Annapurna I.

Born in the remote Makalu village of Sankhuwasabha, Chhang Dawa grew up surrounded by the mountains that would define his life. By 2014, he became the youngest climber in the world to complete all 14 peaks above 8,000 meters at the age of 30. Alongside his brother Mingma Sherpa, he set a unique world record: the first two brothers to scale all 14 of the world’s 8,000ers.

That foundation of personal achievement gave Chhang Dawa an unmatched credibility as an expedition manager. Today, as co-owner of Seven Summit Treks (SST) — Nepal’s largest taxpayer in the trekking and expedition sector — he oversees the biggest mountaineering operations across the Himalayas and the Karakoram. Since its establishment in 2010, SST has guided climbers, both Nepali and international, to fulfill their quests for the world’s tallest summits.

For those who have climbed with his support, Chhang Dawa’s leadership is not just about logistics but about instilling trust. His deep knowledge of the mountains, his respect for safety, and his ability to inspire climbers have made him indispensable in the high-stakes world of mountaineering. 

“His management skill is amazing,” said NMA officials. “He has helped countless climbers — Nepali and foreign — realize their dreams of summiting the world’s 14 peaks.”

As climbers like Bargiel continue to push the limits of what is possible on the mountains, one truth endures: the world’s most daring ascents often carry the invisible imprint of Chhang Dawa— the man who turns ambition into achievement, and dreams into history.