KATHMANDU: Search and recovery operations on Mt. Makalu have been ended after a second attempt to retrieve the body of climber Phurba Ongel Sherpa failed due to extreme weather conditions, according to expedition officials.

Legendary climber Sanu Sherpa said he, along with four Sherpa rescuers from 8K Expeditions, returned to base camp after being forced to retreat from Camp IV. The team was unable to reach the area where Phurba Ongel is believed to have fallen.

“Biting cold and strong winds made it impossible to proceed,” Sanu Sherpa said, adding that the team had just arrived back at base camp from Camp IV.

The fate of Iranian climber Abolfazl Gozali, who went missing during the same summit push, also remains unknown. No trace of him has been found so far. 

Another expedition team from AltiPro was also forced to abandon its summit attempt due to high winds.

The incident occurred during a recent ascent of the world’s fifth-highest mountain, when four climbers — Sanu Sherpa, Phurba Ongel Sherpa, Abolfazl Gozali and Lakpa Rinji Sherpa — successfully reached the summit. Phurba Ongel died during the descent after falling from above Camp IV at around 7,500 metres, while Gozali was last seen descending alone near Camp III. His communication devices are believed to be non-functional.

Earlier, Makalu Adventure, the expedition organiser, had said search efforts were on hold as teams waited at base camp for a favourable weather window, with additional oxygen, food and fuel airlifted to support the mission. However, continued high winds and dangerously low temperatures ultimately forced the suspension of operations.

Sanu Sherpa and other rescuers are expected to return to Kathmandu in the coming days. Both Makalu Adventure and 8K Expeditions have stressed that the extreme weather and risks at high altitude made further attempts unsafe.