Climbing

Mt Everest records season's first summit as route opens from Nepal side

Mt
Photo Courtesy: Lakpa Sherpa/8K Expeditions
By Tourism Times
Published at : 13 May 2026, 10:19 AM

KATHMANDU: A team of rope-fixing climbers successfully scaled Mt Everest from the Nepal side this morning after opening a climbing route to the summit of the world's highest peak.



Expedition officials said over the phone from high camp that the route is now open, as Sherpa climbers fixed lines to the summit and became the first to scale the world's tallest mountain this season, reaching the top.

Expedition Operators Association Nepal, field office of the Department of Tourism at the Everest base camp and other government official stationed there, reported that the joint team of EOAN opened the climbing route to the summit point at around 10:25 am.

"Now, climbers from around the world, along with their high-altitude workers, can make their summit pushes on Mt Everest after the rope-fixing team opened the route," said Rishi Bhandari, general secretary of EOAN.



Six foreign climbers - three Chinese, two Norwegians and one from the USA - along with seven Sherpa guides from Imagine Nepal Treks, are also following the rope-fixing team to make a summit attempt on Mt Everest, informed Mingma G. “They will stand atop the mountain shortly.”



More than 490 climbers from around the world, along with their support staff, have been waiting for favourable weather to make summit attempts on Mt. Everest after acclimatising in the Khumbu region for over a month. The climbers have also engaged in camp rotations to prepare themselves for their summit pushes, said Lakpa Sherpa, managing director and expedition leader at 8K Expeditions, adding that more climbers would attempt to scale the mountain from now onward.



The team had opened a route above the Balcony yesterday and headed for the summit push this morning, said Chhang Dawa Sherpa, expedition director at Seven Summit Treks.



The Expedition Operators Association of Nepal assigned a joint team of rope-fixing climbers, while expedition agencies including Imagine Nepal Treks and Seven Summit Treks provided additional personnel to fix the ropes from the South Col to the summit point on Mt Everest this season.



“Please do not run after rumors, this fixing is particularly done under Expedition Operators Association Nepal and EOAN joint team has fixed the rope in which the Department of Tourism ( DOT) has given us permission despite some additional sherpas from members agencies who helped us,” Pemba Sherpa, Rope Fixing Co-ordinator for EOAN commented.

According to Damber Parajuli, EOAN's president, the joint rope-fixing team is led by experienced climber Mingma Tenje Sherpa. Members include Pam Dorjee Sherpa, Chhomba Tenji Sherpa, Pasang Tashi Sherpa, Mingma Nurbu Sherpa, Lopsang Bhote, Furtenzi Sherpa, Guru Bhote, Mingma Dorchi Sherpa, and Pasang Tenjing Sherpa. Seven Summit Treks has provided three additional Sherpa climbers to fix the route, he added.



In coordination with EOAN, experienced icefall doctors from the Sagarmatha Pollution Control Committee earlier opened a route from base camp to Camp II, crossing the treacherous icefall section.

The icefall doctors who have been monitoring the route include team leader Ang Sarki Sherpa, Dawa Jangbu Sherpa, Tendu Sherpa, Ngima Tenji Sherpa, Phura Chheten Sherpa, Dawa Chhirri Sherpa, Sonam Geljen Sherpa and Mingma Gyaljen Sherpa, said Tshering Tenzing Sherpa, SPCC’s base camp manager.

This is what Mingma G shared from the high camp after summit success: 

“Yesterday (May 12) we stepped back because we were promised that the route to the summit would be fixed early. However, there was no movement from South Col until 1 a.m., so we stepped in again. We called back our three main Sherpas, along with two from Elite Exped, down from South Col, as there was enough manpower.”

“Although we had fewer people at South Col, if there is the will, even three people are enough to get the job done. Those three - Pasang Ngima Sherpa, Fura Namgya Sherpa and Ila Sherpa - went straight to the South Summit fixing rope without any support. From the South Summit onward, some fixing team members joined them, but I believe our only constraint was a lack of rope.”

“Now, I firmly assert that our team fixed the Everest summit. The rest of the teams can proceed with their summit climbs. I remain very thankful to the fixing team for their work all the way to South Col.”

What SST Director Chhang Dawa updated from the base camp: 

Everest - Sagarmatha Rope Fixing Mission Successfully Completed!!!
13 May, 2026

This morning at 10:25 am, the rope-fixing team, including three Sherpas from Seven Summit Treks, Mingtemba, Pasang Nurbu, and Dendi Sherpa, reached the summit of Mt. Everest (South Side).

After pushing from last night following the successful installation of fixed ropes up to the Balcony (8400 m), the first and second fixing team joined forces to complete the final section via the South Summit to the top.

Hats off to Rope Fixing Team:
1. EOA - Mingma Dorchi Sherpa (Sankhuwasabha)
2. EOA - Mingma Tenje Sherpa (Sankhuwasabha)
3. EOA - Pam Dorjee Sherpa (Solukhumbu)
4. EOA - Pasang Tenjing Sherpa (Sankhuwasabha) - South Summit
5. EOA - Lopsang Bhote (Taplejung)
6. EOA - Chhomba Tenji Sherpa (Sankhuwasabha)
7. EOA - Mingma Nurbu Sherpa (Sankhuwasabha)
8. EOA - Pasang Tashi Sherpa (Sankhuwasabha)
9. EOA - Phurtenji Sherpa (Sankhuwasabha) - South Summit
10. EOA - Guru Bhote (Sankhuwasabha)
11. Seven Summit Treks (Led by) - Mingtemba Sherpa (14 Peaks Climber - Sankhuwasabha)
12. SST- Pasang Nurbu Sherpa (14 Peaks Climber - Sankhuwasabha)
13. SST- Dendi Sherpa (Mali-8, Dolakha)
14. Imagine Nepal – Pasang Ngima Sherpa (Happy)

This season presented unique challenges from the very beginning. The significant delay caused by the Khumbu Icefall put immense pressure on the entire fixing operation and load-ferrying work for the ground crew. Through calm coordination and strong collaboration among all operators, we worked together to overcome the difficulties and accomplish the mission.

Chronology of the 2026 Everest Rope Fixing Mission:

Base Camp established by the fixing team: 05/06 April
Khumbu Icefall problem solved and Camp 1 established: 28 April
Camp 2 established: 28 April
Camp 3 established: 05 May
South Col (Camp 4) established: 08 May
Balcony reached: 12 May
Summit reached: 13 May

We extend our deepest gratitude and congratulations to the entire rope-fixing team, formed in coordination with the handling agency and the Expedition Operators’ Association of Nepal (EOA), who reached the summit today, for their professionalism, determination, and outstanding work under a very tight schedule. The teams of the Sagarmatha Pollution Control Committee (SPCC) and EOA have now successfully opened the route all the way from Base Camp to the Summit, allowing hundreds of climbers to pursue their dream of standing on top of the world.

And now we look forward to making final preparations for the summit bids of the spring 2026 season.

Tags: #Trekking

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Akku Chowdhury

Thanks 🙏 For The Great Initiative #joiManush