KATHMANDU: In a landmark achievement for Nepali-led exploratory mountaineering, a team organised by Seven Summit Treks (SST) has completed the first official ascents of two previously unclimbed Himalayan peaks—Chhuama II (6,325 m) and Chhuama I (6,366 m)—in Upper Mustang, accomplishing the feat in alpine style during winter, a rarity in modern Himalayan climbing.

Both summits were reached on December 21, with the team completing a full summit-to-summit traverse between the two peaks, covering roughly 1,000 metres of technical terrain. The expedition is being widely recognised as a significant step forward in Nepal’s growing focus on responsible exploration of virgin peaks and high-standard alpine climbing.

According to Seven Summit Treks, the expedition marked the company’s first dedicated winter exploratory mission on unclimbed peaks, undertaken as part of its long-term strategy to develop sustainable and professional exploratory mountaineering in Nepal.

Photo Courtesy: SST

“This project marks SST’s first dedicated winter exploratory expedition on unclimbed peaks, setting a foundation for similar endeavors in the years ahead,” said Chhang Dawa Sherpa, Expedition Director at Seven Summit Treks. "This achievement exhibits our growing focus on exploratory mountaineering, respect of alpine-style climbs, and responsible development of unclimbed peaks in Nepal." 

Summit push and route

The team climbed Chhuama II via its southeast face, traversed westward along the ridge to Chhuama I, and descended via the south ridge of Chhuama I, completing the entire expedition in pure alpine style, without fixed ropes or high-altitude camps, Chhang Dawa Sherpa added.

Photo Courtesy: SST

"The team achieved the summit of Chhuama II at 8:45 am on December 21, and later summitted Chhuama I at 10:59 am the same day," Sherpa said.

Expedition team

• Jenjen Lama – Mountain Guide & Expedition Leader (Summiter)
• Pasang Rinzee Sherpa – Mountain Guide & High-Altitude Photographer/Videographer (Summiter)
• Ashish Gurung – IFMGA Mountain Guide (Summiter)
• Ashok Nepal – Logistics / Base Camp Support
• Anish Dahal – Expedition Leader
• The expedition was officially organised by Seven Summit Treks, with gear support from Pelliot Nepal.

Photo Courtesy: SST

National recognition

The achievement has been formally acknowledged by both the Nepal Mountaineering Association (NMA) and the Nepal National Mountain Guide Association (NNMGA).

In a statement, the NMA congratulated the team for their “valuable contribution to the advancement of Nepal’s mountaineering and adventure tourism,” noting the importance of first ascents carried out in alpine style.

Photo Courtesy: SST

Similarly, the NNMGA described the expedition as a strong example of professional guiding standards, alpine decision-making, and winter exploratory climbing, highlighting the growing leadership of Nepali mountain guides in first ascents and high-risk winter expeditions.

The Chhuama first ascents further reinforce Nepal’s position not only as a destination for commercial expeditions but also as a frontier for serious exploratory mountaineering, led increasingly by Nepali climbers themselves.

Photo Courtesy: SST