KATHMANDU: Renowned Nepali mountaineer Sanu Sherpa, along with Iranian climber Abolfazl Gozali, successfully summited Mount Makalu (8,485 metres) on Thursday morning, completing a rare winter ascent of the world’s fifth-highest peak.

According to Mohan Lamsal, founder of the Makalu Adventure Pvt Ltd, the duo reached the summit at 10:27 am Nepal time as part of the company’s Mount Makalu Winter Expedition 2026.

Meanwhile, other four sherpa climbers are on the way to the summit, according to the lamsal.

Another expedition member, Piyali Basak, was forced to turn back from Camp III due to health issues and has since returned safely to the base camp, Lamsal added. 

Winter ascents of Makalu are considered among the most challenging in high-altitude mountaineering due to extreme cold, high winds and technical difficulty. The first winter ascent of the peak was achieved in February 2009 by Italy’s Simone Moro and Kazakhstan’s Denis Urubko—17 years ago.

Photo Courtesy: Makalu Adventure

The latest success further strengthens Sherpa’s legendary mountaineering record. He has climbed 8,000-metre peaks more than 40 times and has already completed all 14 of the world’s highest mountains twice. With only Shishapangma, Cho Oyu and Dhaulagiri remaining, Sherpa is now closer to becoming the first climber in history to summit all 14 eight-thousanders three times.

Makalu Adventure described the summit as a historic achievement and said the expedition team is now heading back to base camp safely.