Climbing

Three outstanding ascents win Piolets d’Or 2025; Four Nepali climbers among this year’s nominees

Three
Kaqur Kangri. Photo Courtesy: Spencer Gray/AAJ via Piolets d’Or 2025
By Tourism Times
Published at : 2 Nov 2025, 11:20 AM

Award-winning climbs in Nepal and Pakistan highlight bold exploration, while Nepali mountaineers gain fresh recognition for first ascents of virgin peaks

KATHMANDU: The International Jury of the Piolets d’Or 2025 has announced three winning ascents for this year’s prestigious awards, honoring remarkable climbs achieved in 2024. The jury noted that while selecting only three expeditions was difficult, these climbs best embody the high values and spirit of alpinism that the Piolets d’Or represents.

The celebrated climbs include two in Pakistan’s Karakoram and one in Nepal’s remote Himalaya — each recognized for technical mastery, commitment, and exploration in pure alpine style.

Yashkuk Sar. Photo Courtesy: Dane Steadman/AAJ via Piolets d’Or 2025

Yashkuk Sar (6,667m), Pakistan Karakoram

American climbers August Franzen, Dane Steadman, and Cody Winckler made the first ascent of Yashkuk Sar in the Batura Muztagh via the north pillar–Tiger Lily Buttress (2,000m, AI5+ M6 A0) from September 19 to 23. They traversed the peak and descended via the upper west and lower north faces.

The team’s bold climb from the isolated Yashkuk Yaz Glacier involved steep ice, technical mixed terrain, and precarious bivouacs. The jury praised their achievement as “a highly committing ascent by a young team who embody the true spirit of exploration and alpinism.”

Kaqur Kangri (6,859m), Nepal Himalaya

Americans Spencer Gray and Ryan Griffiths achieved the first ascent of the southwest arête (1,670m, 5.10 A0 M7 WI5) of Kaqur Kangri, also known as Kanti Himal, between October 15 and 21, traversing the mountain and descending via the previously unclimbed northwest ridge.

Located in Nepal’s remote far-western region along the border with Tibet, the peak had not been visited since its first ascent in 2002. The jury described their route as “one of the hardest ever established in West Nepal,” praising its elegant line, good style, and high level of exploration.

Gasherbrum III. Photo Courtesy: Jacek Wiltosinski/AAJ via Piolets d’Or 2025

Gasherbrum III (7,952m), Pakistan Karakoram

Slovenian Aleš Česen and British climber Tom Livingstone completed the first ascent of the west ridge of Gasherbrum III via Edge of Entropy (nearly 3,000m base to summit) from July 31 to August 4, traversing the mountain by descending the east face and the normal route of Gasherbrum II.

Their ascent, carried out in light alpine style, was recognized as a long, difficult, and committing climb on a rarely visited 7,000m peak — a model of technical achievement and adventure on the world’s highest mountains.

It has to be noted that successful ascents of two virgin peaks have also earned at least four Nepali climbers nominations for the coveted Piolets d’Or awards this year.

Vinayak Jaya Malla, Pasang Kami Sherpa, and Pasang Rinzee Sherpa have been nominated for the Piolets d’Or 2024 for their first ascent of Patrasi I (6,450m) via the northwest ridge over Patrasi II in the remote Kanjiroba Himal. Separately, Pasang Kidar Sherpa of Rolwaling and Danika Gilbert of Colorado, USA, were nominated for establishing a new alpine-style route on the northwest ridge of Beding Go (6,125m) in the Gaurishankar range.

Earlier, record-holding climber Mingma G from Imagine Nepal Treks was nominated for the awards twice - for scaling Bamongo peak in 2013 and Chobuje in 2015. Likewise, Pasang Kidar, Dawa Yangzum Sherpa, Dawa Gyalje Sherpa, and Nima Tenji Sherpa were nominated for the awards in 2018 for their first ascent of Langdung peak.

The Piolets d’Or, regarded as the “Oscars of mountaineering,” celebrates boldness, technical mastery, and a spirit of partnership in the world’s most demanding mountain environments.

The Piolets d’Or 2025 ceremony will take place in San Martino di Castrozza, in the Italian Dolomites, from December 9 to 12, 2025.


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