Winter ascent tragedy: 8K Expeditions mobilises four climbers for search and recovery on Makalu
By
Tourism Times
Published at : 17 Jan 2026, 1:39 PM
KATHMANDU: A team of Sherpa climbers from 8K Expeditions arrived at Makalu Base Camp this morning to conduct a search and recovery operation for climbers reported dead and missing above 7,000 meters on the world’s fifth-highest mountain.
The voluntary mission follows an incident where a Sherpa climber died and an Iranian alpinist went missing after a team from Makalu Adventure reached the summit of Makalu on Thursday morning.
According to Pemba Sherpa, Chairman of 8K Expeditions, his company voluntarily mobilized four experienced Sherpa rescuers—Ashok Lama, Pasdawa Sherpa, Ang Chhiring Sherpa, and Pasang Tenji Sherpa—to recover the body of Phurba Ongel Sherpa. Phurba Ongel fell from above Camp IV at approximately 7,500 meters during his descent.
“Our team will coordinate with Sanu Sherpa and immediately launch a search and recovery mission,” said Lakpa Sherpa, Managing Director at 8K Expeditions, adding that his company decided to launch the voluntary operation to help fellow climbers facing difficult times on Makalu.
The team will attempt to recover Phurba Ongel’s body and search for the Iranian climber, Abolfazl Gozali, who went missing near Camp III during his descent, according to Pemba.
Mohan Lamsal, Managing Director of Makalu Adventure, confirmed the incident and stated that his company would also mobilize its Sherpa climbers currently at base camp for the search and recovery.
Four climbers—Sanu Sherpa, Abolfazl Gozali, Phurba Ongel, and Lakpa Rinji Sherpa—had reached the summit on Thursday.
Legendary climber Sanu Sherpa recounted that all four scaled Makalu around the same time and began their descent together. During the descent, Phurba Ongel and Lakpa Rinji were a few meters ahead of Sanu and Gozali.
“I saw Lakpa Rinji crying a few meters below, and I asked him what happened. He told me that Phurba Ongel had fallen from that area,” Sanu shared.
According to Sanu, he and Lakpa Rinji decided to search for Phurba Ongel and asked Gozali to stay put. “But Gozali said he would slowly descend on his own,” Sanu said. “We then located Phurba Ongel at around 7,500 meters after staying in the area for about an hour.”
As time was running out, they began descending to Camp III, assuming Gozali had already arrived. Upon reaching Camp III, a Sherpa guide there reported that he had not seen Gozali.
“We then descended to Camp II, but Gozali was not there either,” Sanu said. He then communicated with base camp staff to check if Gozali had arrived there, but they confirmed he had not.
Sanu added that from Camp IV, Gozali was last seen crossing a plain route that was not considered difficult. He has not been seen since, and his communication devices are dysfunctional.
“We will try to find him and also recover Phurba Ongel’s body with the help from 8K Expeditions’ Sherpa climbers,” Sanu said.
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