KATHMANDU: IFMGA-certified Nepali guide Abiral Rai has etched his name in mountaineering history by becoming the first person from the Kirat Rai (Thulung Rai) community to summit Mount Vinson, Antarctica's highest peak at 4,892 meters.

Rai reached the summit at 10:00 pm on January 6, marking a milestone of both national and cultural significance for Nepal's indigenous climbing community.

A remote and demanding achievement

Mount Vinson ranks among the world's most logistically challenging peaks, with only approximately 1,200 climbers globally having reached its summit. Nepali climbers on Vinson remain relatively few, making Rai's accomplishment particularly significant in the nation's mountaineering narrative.

The expedition was led by veteran guide Jangbu Sherpa, who completed his 18th Vinson ascent, alongside Mingma Sherpa and Hari Budha Magar. The climb also marked a historic moment for Magar, who became the world's first double above-knee amputee to complete the Seven Summits—the highest peaks on all seven continents.

According to the Nepal National Mountain Guide Association (NNMGA), seven Nepali climbers reached the summit that day, making it a landmark occasion for Nepal in Antarctica.

Four continental summits completed

For Rai, Vinson represents the fourth continent in his Seven Summits pursuit. He previously became the first Rai community member to summit Aconcagua (6,960m) in South America in 2025 and Carstensz Pyramid (4,884m) in Oceania. Combined with his Asian ascents, he has now conquered four of the seven continental high points.

From porter to elite guide

Rai's journey exemplifies mountaineering's transformative potential. Beginning his career as a porter, he earned IFMGA/UIAGM certification in 2019—one of the highest qualifications in mountain guiding. Since then, he has guided hundreds of clients on major Himalayan peaks including Everest, Lhotse, and Manaslu, as well as international expeditions.

His progression from porter to internationally certified guide reflects years of discipline, technical mastery, and leadership development.

A source of community pride

In a facebook post following the ascent, Rai called the achievement "an unforgettable and historic day for Nepal in Antarctica," expressing pride for both the Rai community and the nation.

"It was a proud moment for the Rai community and Nepal," he wrote, thanking his teammates and supporters.

As Rai continues his pursuit of the remaining three continental summits, his achievements are increasingly inspiring young Nepalis entering the mountaineering profession. By carrying his community's identity to some of the world's most remote peaks, he has added a distinct chapter to Nepal's climbing legacy—one defined by representation, perseverance, and cultural pride.