Climbing

Climbers head for summit push on Annapurna, Dhaulagiri, Makalu

Climbers
Dhaulagiri. Photo Courtesy: Seven Summit Treks
By Tourism Times
Published at : 17 Apr 2026, 3:03 PM

Teams positioned at high camps as favourable weather opens summit window

KATHMANDU: Expedition teams are gearing up for a summit push on three of Nepal's most demanding Himalayan giants — Annapurna I (8,091m), Dhaulagiri (8,167m), and Makalu (8,463m) — as a favourable weather window opens over the high peaks this spring season.

Climbers accompanied by Sherpa guides have reached critical high-altitude positions: teams are in place at Annapurna Camp IV and Dhaulagiri Camp IV, while the Makalu contingent has ascended to Camp III. Departure for the summits is expected tonight.

"Weather is favorable for the summit push," said Chhang Dawa Sherpa, Expedition Director at Seven Summit Treks, confirming that the teams will make their move overnight.

The three mountains are among the most technically demanding 8,000m peaks in the world. Annapurna I, with its notoriously difficult avalanche-prone faces, remains one of the most deadly summits in Himalayan mountaineering. Dhaulagiri's long ridgelines demand careful route management at altitude, while Makalu's steep rock faces test technical climbing skill at extreme elevation.

The Spring 2026 season has seen robust numbers across Nepal's high peaks. According to the Royalty Report issued by Nepal's Ministry of Culture, Tourism and Civil Aviation covering 01 March to 15 April 2026,  27 climbers have obtained permits to summit Annapurna I across four teams, generating USD 81,000 in royalty revenue. 

For Dhaulagiri, 28 climbers have obtained permits across three teams (USD 84,000 royalty), and Makalu has 54 climbers receving permits across eight teams, yielding USD 159,330 in royalties — reflecting the peak's popularity among experienced high-altitude mountaineers this season.

A total of 85 teams comprising 700 climbers have obtained permits to climb 25 mountains this season, with 523 male and 177 female climbers. Nepal has received NPR 5,079,380 (approximately USD 755,868,282) in royalty fees from these permits. Sagarmatha remains an all-time favorite, with 30 teams and 297 climbers — 234 men and 63 women — securing permits so far this season.


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