Climbing

Dhaulagiri rope-fixing team reaches above Camp II

Dhaulagiri
By Tourism Times
Published at : 5 Oct 2026, 6:22 PM

KATHMANDU: The rope-fixing team on Mount Dhaulagiri has reached about 400 metres above Camp II as autumn expedition teams prepare for higher-altitude rotations and summit attempts.

Lakpa Sherpa, expedition leader and managing director of 8K Expeditions, said the team plans to continue fixing the route towards Camp III on Tuesday. He said climbers are preparing for rotations and the final summit push while monitoring weather and mountain conditions.

According to Sherpa, snow conditions on the mountain are currently favourable, with firm and well-set snow allowing safer movement. He said heavy snowfall following the recent cyclone had cleared much of the unstable snow and that avalanche danger was currently low.

"The mountain is giving us a good window, but Dhaulagiri always demands respect. We will continue step by step, carefully assessing the conditions and making decisions with safety as our first priority," Lakpa said.

The latest progress comes after Dhaulagiri expeditions resumed following a week-long pause caused by adverse weather. Earlier, rope-fixing climbers had reached Camp I while nearly 20 climbers, including foreign clients, had reached Base Camp.

Expedition teams are aiming for summit attempts before October 15, subject to weather and route conditions. More than 35 foreign climbers have received permits for Dhaulagiri for the autumn season, according to the Department of Tourism.


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