KATHMANDU: A joint team of senior mountain guides and Icefall doctors climbed to the dangerous section of the Khumbu Glacier and found that fixing a route in the treacherous icefall section is impossible unless the large chunk of hanging serac collapses.

Lakpa Sherpa, Expedition Director at 8K Expeditions, who is coordinating the field visit recce from base camp, informed that 17 mountain guides and 8 icefall doctors visited the area on Sunday morning and inspected the fragile hanging serac along the icefall section.

“The joint team observed that there was no option to find any alternative safe route in the treacherous section until the hanging serac collapses,” Lakpa said, adding that the joint team of the Sagarmatha Pollution Control Committee and expedition operators was returning to base camp from the icefall section.

Tshering Tenzing Sherpa, base camp manager at SPCC, also confirmed that the serac has further widened, obstructing the proposed route to Camp I. “Earlier the gap was some 3 feet, but it was found to be some 8 feet today,” he said, hoping that it would collapse in a few days.

The inspection team clearly notified base camp officials that there was no other safe option to place ropes and ladders there other than waiting a few days for the widening serac to fall on its own, Lakpa shared.

Photo courtesy: Lakpa Sherpa/8K Expeditions

The Department of Tourism, as per the minister‑level decision, has authorized a separate EOAN team of mountain guides to coordinate with the SPCC’s icefall doctors for route fixing in the Khumbu Icefall. “Now there is no suspicion left to blame icefall doctors for delaying route fixing,” Tshering said, adding that icefall doctors were capable enough to analyse the risk and danger on Everest’s most treacherous section.

After today’s recce, Lakpa and Tshering both believed that the huge chunk of serac would collapse in a few days and the safest route would be fixed there. “Rather than making silly statements from Kathmandu, all need to know the ground situation here on the mountain,” the duo said, urging everyone to be patient for safe and successful climbing in the season.

The role of Icefall doctors could not be undermined, as they have a long legacy in Everest climbing, Lama Kazi Sherpa, Chairman at SPCC, commented. “They know the dos and don’ts in rope fixing when it comes to placing ladders in the icefall section,” he said.

All climbers and others concerned need not worry, Lakpa said, adding that the route will be fixed immediately after the serac collapses. For smooth operations, the government should allow operators to airlift logistics and rope‑fixing Sherpas to Camp II, Lakpa demanded. “The climbing period can be extended for a week or two beyond May 29,” he said. “It’s a mountain, and everyone needs patience rather than indulging in the blame game.” Lakpa noted that a delay in opening the route would certainly take its toll on expedition organisers, but that could not be more important than safety and success on Everest.

SPCC’s base camp manager Tshering also urged everyone to be optimistic and wait for the favourable moment. “SPCC is always ready to facilitate and coordinate with all for a smooth climbing season,” he added.