"Human courage and determination stand taller than any mountain."

Among the golden names in Nepal's mountaineering history, Phunjo Jangmu Lama stands apart — a world record-holding climber, accomplished guide, and a living embodiment of human resilience.

Born in the sacred Chum Valley of Gorkha, she has become both a skilled guardian of the Himalayas and an enduring symbol of what is possible.

A record that rewrote history

Phunjo first etched her name in mountaineering history in 2018, when she summited Everest in 39 hours and 6 minutes — becoming the fastest woman in the world to climb the peak, a feat officially recognised by Guinness World Records. When Hong Kong climber Ada Tsang Yin-hung broke that record in 2021, Phunjo did not retreat. On May 23, 2024, she returned to Everest with quiet determination and climbed from base camp to summit in just 14 hours and 31 minutes — shattering her own previous mark by an extraordinary margin and reclaiming the Guinness title as the world's fastest female Everest summiteer.

She completed the full base camp to summit and back journey in 24 hours and 26 minutes — an achievement no male climber or guide had accomplished in the same manner. Battling low oxygen, extreme cold and harsh weather, Phunjo proved that women can not only match but lead where history had never ventured before. She made the historic summit on Buddha Jayanti, sending a message of world peace from the top of the world — a moment that swelled the chest of every Nepali with pride.

Spring 2026: A guide's extraordinary act of humanity

This spring season added yet another extraordinary chapter to Phunjo's story. In a feat that left the mountaineering world in quiet awe, she guided an Australian woman living with multiple serious illnesses safely to the summit of Everest — becoming the first female guide in history to lead a climber with complex health challenges to the world's highest point.

Her message was simple but profound: with firm resolve and skilled leadership, no challenge in the Himalayas is insurmountable. Where others might have seen risk too great to bear, Phunjo saw a human being whose dream deserved to be realised.

Beyond the summit

Phunjo Jangmu Lama is far more than a record-breaking mountaineer. She is Nepal's first female helicopter long-line rescuer — a role that places her among the bravest first responders in the country's history, saving lives in conditions where few dare to operate.

She is also a quiet but constant presence behind the scenes in her home region — supporting rural and marginalised communities in areas of livelihood, education, and sustainable development. 

Deeply aware of climate change's impact on Himalayan ecosystems, she has consistently called on the world to protect the mountains she calls home.

A mother who has risen above every social boundary, a guide who has led others to greatness at personal risk, a rescuer who has pulled lives from the edge — Phunjo represents the fullest meaning of strength.

Why Phunjo stands alone

Her speed climbing record — from base camp to summit and back — remains unmatched in mountaineering history. In a field long dominated by men, she stands as the most powerful example of what female leadership looks like at the highest altitude on earth. She does not climb only for records; she climbs for others, staking her own life so that those who dare to dream — even those carrying the weight of serious illness — may reach the top.

"With firm will, the right leadership, and a measure of human compassion, no challenge in the Himalayas is impossible."

When the mountains smile, Nepal smiles — and it is the courage and sweat of daughters like Phunjo that carry Nepal's name to the roof of the world. Our deepest congratulations and highest respect to this true and brave daughter of the Himalayas. 

Shiva Bahadur Sapkota is the General Secretary, Everest Summiteers Association Nepal