Climbing

Sanu Sherpa summits Lhotse in pursuit of unprecedented third 14x8000m round

Sanu
File Photo
By Tourism Times
Published at : 18 May 2026, 9:51 AM

KATHMANDU: Legendary Nepali mountaineer Sanu Sherpa has summited Lhotse (8,516m), adding another peak to his extraordinary pursuit of becoming the first climber in history to summit all 14 eight-thousanders three times.

Sanu reached the summit of the world's fourth highest peak at 6:40 am on Monday alongside three Chinese climbers and three Nepali guides, despite challenging high-altitude conditions, extreme cold, and demanding technical terrain, according to Lakpa Sherpa, Managing Director at the 8K Expeditions.

Already recognised globally as the first climber to complete the Double 14x8000ers, summiting all 14 peaks above 8,000 metres twice, Sanu is now deep into his third round of the same feat, an achievement no other mountaineer has accomplished. With Lhotse now behind him, only Cho Oyu and Shishapangma remain between him and mountaineering history.

His path to this point has been relentless. Earlier this spring he summited Dhaulagiri (8,167m) as part of a Pioneer Adventures expedition in April, and in January completed a rare winter ascent of Makalu (8,485m) — one of the most technically demanding climbs in high-altitude mountaineering. That expedition was marked by tragedy when fellow climber Phurba Ongel Sherpa died during descent and Iranian climber Abolfazl Gozali went missing, with subsequent search operations called off due to extreme weather.

Sanu has now climbed 8,000-metre peaks more than 40 times across his career. "He continues to inspire the mountaineering world with his unmatched endurance, courage, and lifelong dedication to the mountains," Lakpa Sherpa said.

The full Lhotse summit team comprised Sanu Sherpa, Chinese mountaineers Chen Xuexuan, Zhang Tianxun, and Xuan Wenrun, and Nepali climbers Pem Tenji Sherpa, Phurtenji Sherpa, and Ngima Chhiring Sherpa. 

The entire team is descending safely toward Camp IV following the summit, Lakpa Sherpa informed.

At 8,516 metres, Lhotse ranks as one of the world's toughest 8,000-metre peaks, famous for its steep ice-covered slopes, punishing altitude, and technical climbing terrain along the Everest massif.

Tags: #Trekking

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