KATHMANDU: Pur Bahadur Gurung, widely known in Nepal's mountaineering circles as "Yukta," was among the climbers who lost their lives when a massive avalanche struck the Broad Peak (8,047m) expedition in Pakistan on July 30, 2026.

Born on December 23, 1988, in Laprak-3, Gorkha, Gurung's journey to the top of the world's highest peaks began far from the summits — as a porter and trekking cook.

Gurung started work in hospitality and as a porter and trekking cook between 2003 and 2008, according to a biography from Elite Exped, where he served as Lead Guide from 2022 until his death. It was during this period, beginning in 2006, that his passion for the mountains took hold, immersing himself in the high-altitude environment that would come to define his life's work.

He laid the technical foundation for his mountaineering career in 2009, completing the Basic Mountaineering Training Course and the Trekking Guide Course. He built on this in 2010 with the Hill Walking and Mountain Navigation Course, and in 2011 completed High Mountain Rescue Training, equipping him with the skills to prioritise the safety of climbers and rescuers alike in high-altitude environments. He went on to complete Advanced Mountaineering Training in both 2015 and 2016, refining his technical climbing, rescue and high-altitude survival skills.

Gurung summited his first Himalayan peak, Everest, in 2014 — a milestone that marked the beginning of a remarkable climbing career. He would go on to summit Everest seven times in total, and climbed K2 twice, including one ascent completed in just 24 hours. Over the course of his career, he summited 11 of the world's 14 eight-thousand-meter peaks.

Beyond his own climbing achievements, Gurung served as a trekking and climbing guide for companies including Ascent Himalayas and Kaitu Expedition between 2009 and 2021, leading clients to the summits of iconic peaks including Everest and Ama Dablam, as well as mountains in China. In 2015, he also took part in earthquake disaster relief efforts in Nepal, reflecting a commitment to his community beyond the mountaineering profession.

Gurung joined the Broad Peak expedition in July 2026 as part of an international team. On July 30, an avalanche swept through the route, claiming his life along with those of other members of the expedition.

Pur Bahadur "Yukta" Gurung was 37.