T3 Special

Legendary Kili Pemba gone too soon, but not forgotten

Legendary
By Tourism Times
Published at : 2 Aug 2026, 9:57 PM

• OBIT

KATHMANDU: The remote but breathtaking Rolwaling Valley in Dolakha is mourning the loss of one of its finest sons. Kili Pemba Sherpa—affectionately known as "Kilu"—an elite Nepali mountaineer whose humility matched his extraordinary accomplishments, was among those killed in Thursday's devastating avalanche on Broad Peak (8,047m) in Pakistan.

For the people of Rolwaling, a valley celebrated for producing generations of legendary Himalayan climbers, Kili was more than a mountaineer. He was a source of pride, an inspiration to aspiring climbers, and a quiet professional who earned global respect through skill, courage and selfless service on the world's highest peaks.

The tragedy struck just weeks after what should have been the crowning achievement of his career. On July 3, Kili stood atop Nanga Parbat (8,125m), completing the coveted Grand Slam of all 14 mountains above 8,000 metres. The historic ascent placed him among an elite group of climbers worldwide to have reached the summits of every eight-thousander.

The summit came after a rapid three-day push from base camp alongside fellow Sherpa Lakpa Chhiri Sherpa and Chinese climber Wang Zhong under the leadership of Imagine Nepal. The expedition showcased Kili's remarkable strength, precision and experience in high-altitude climbing.

But the celebration was heartbreakingly brief.

On July 30, while guiding Wang Zhong on Broad Peak, Kili was caught in a massive avalanche that swept a 10-member international expedition down the mountain's west-facing gully between Camp II and Camp III. Both guide and client lost their lives, bringing an abrupt end to one of Nepal's most distinguished mountaineering careers.

As a key member of the Imagine Nepal team, Kili had spent years pushing the boundaries of Himalayan climbing while helping others realise their dreams. He climbed Mount Everest 15 times and K2 twice, achievements that placed him among Nepal's most accomplished high-altitude guides.

Yet numbers alone cannot define his legacy.

In 2018, Kili guided Chinese double-leg amputee Xia Boyu to the summit of Everest on his fifth attempt, a climb that captured international attention as one of mountaineering's most inspiring stories of perseverance. Three years later, he guided Russian double-leg amputee Rustam Nabiev to the summit of Manaslu, once again demonstrating that his greatest achievements often came through helping others achieve theirs.

Kili also played a defining role in modern Himalayan mountaineering. In January 2021, he was among the ten Nepali climbers who achieved the first-ever winter ascent of K2, ending one of the last great challenges in high-altitude climbing. Later that year, he joined Mingma G and fellow Sherpas in pioneering the route to Manaslu's true summit, correcting a decades-old misconception about the mountain's highest point.

Despite his remarkable résumé, those who knew Kili remember him less for records than for his character. Friends and fellow climbers describe him as humble, dependable and deeply committed to his teammates and clients. Success never changed the quiet man from Rolwaling, whose love for the mountains remained grounded in respect for nature and service to others.

His death has left an immeasurable void in Nepal's mountaineering community. His family, friends, fellow climbers and the Rolwaling Everest Summiteers Club are mourning a man who reached the highest places on Earth yet remained firmly rooted in the values of his home.

Kili Pemba Sherpa achieved what few climbers in history ever will. But perhaps his greatest legacy lies not only in the summits he reached, but in the lives he uplifted, the impossible dreams he helped others fulfil, and the example he set for future generations of Nepali mountaineers.

He left the world while doing what he loved most—guiding others toward the top of the world.

Though gone far too soon, Kilu will never be forgotten.


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